中英对照香港游必做十件事图文

走四方
2010-11-04
I was born and have lived most of my life in Hong Kong, and whenever I travel to the other two members of the Nylonkong triumvirate I see immediate connections. But if you really want to compare the soul of Hong Kong to that of another Western place, it's not New York or London. It's Sicily, of all places. Like us, Sicilians are islanders — tough and maritime. They have known colonization, revolution and emigration. They have their cosa nostra, we have our triads. Both the Sicilians and the Cantonese are obsessed with seafood, smuggling, secrecy and saving money. O.K., Hong Kong isn't The Godfather, but pay attention as you work through our list below: There's a hint of Palermo in the hilly, narrow alleyways of old Central and in the shirtless, tattooed men lounging in Kowloon doorways. The city of Hong Kong may rub shoulders with New York and London, but its feet still dangle in the brackish water of a sultry, southern port.

   


    我生于香港,大部分时间都生活在这里。每当我旅行到纽伦港的另外两个城市,我都能看出他们彼此相连。但如果你真的想拿一个西方城市同香港的灵魂做比,那绝不是纽约或者伦敦。所有这些城市,只有西西里岛可以。同我们一样,顽强的西西里人也是岛民--沿 海而居。他们了解殖民、革命还有移民。他们有黑手党,我们有三联帮。西西里人同广东人一样,都痴迷于海鲜、走私、隐私还有存钱。当然,香港并非如《教父》 中一般,不过当你途径以下地方,我们还是建议你小心为好:这里丘陵众多,有些类似巴勒莫。老中环狭窄的小巷里,赤膊纹身的年轻人来回闲逛--这就是九龙。香港或许如纽约伦敦般摩肩,然而在这个闷热的南方港口城市,你得在苦咸的海水中接踵。 

 

Tips

Nylonkong:纽伦港,指纽约、伦敦、香港,时代杂志自创的词,与此类似的还有Nylonhai--纽伦海。

  
If a single image could encapsulate Hong Kong, it would be the panorama from Victoria Peak. Looking down at the city from this famous vantage point, you'll see one of the finest harbors on Earth and a skyline so improbable, audacious and lofty that Manhattan's looks provincial by comparison. Beyond the mountains to the north of the city, the rest of China simmers and strains. Everything you've heard about Hong Kong's restlessness and energy is dramatically reaffirmed by the view from the Peak. Even the most cynical locals never tire of visiting. It reminds us why we live here.
You can reach the peak via the Peak Tram, the 120-year-old funicular railway that departs from its terminus on Garden Road (nearest MTR: Central). Plan to arrive a half-hour before sundown and watch as the city lights come on in their varicolored brilliance.

1、太平山

   

    如果一幅画面可以囊括整个香港,那一定是太平山顶的全景图。从这个著名的景点俯瞰整座城市,入眼便是美不胜收的港湾以及远处令人惊叹的地平线。与之相 比,曼哈顿就像是粗鄙的乡下人。在山的另一边,城市北部,中国其他地方满是焦躁与疲惫。山顶的景色再一次诠释了那些你能听到的有关香港的不安与活力。即便 最愤世嫉俗的当地人也对这里乐此不疲,它提醒我们,为何我们住在这里。

你可以经由缆车有着120年历史的缆车从花园路(最近港铁站:中环)始发到达山顶。最好计划好时间,在日落前半小时到达山顶。彼时,整座城市都沉浸在五彩斑斓的落日余晖之中。

 

Tips

1Victoria Peak:太平山,一般指“太平山山顶”,因而被香港人简称为山顶(The Peak),是香港岛著名旅游景点,有“游港第一正选”之称。曾被英国人以维多利亚女王的名字命名为维多利亚山。太平山海拔554米,是香港最高峰。

2MTR,港铁的缩写,全称是“Mass Transit Railway”,直译就是“公共交通铁路”。通常所用的Subway是地下铁路的意思。

  
Proletarian clientele vie for shabby seats at shared tables as ceiling fans whir and an ancient wall clock keeps time — rather pointlessly, given that it's forever 1962 at the Lin Heung ("Fragrant Lotus") Tea House. But if you're going to have dim sum only once during your stay in Hong Kong, this is the place. A decades-old parlor in Hong Kong's Central District, Lin Heung makes no concessions to modernity or to English speakers, so be prepared for pantomime or go with a Cantonese-speaking friend. But what Lin Heung does offer is a tasty and unmediated slice of Old Hong Kong. (Don't leave without trying the lotus paste buns or the glutinous rice dumplings.) The city's culinary and cultural authenticity are potently concentrated in a few surviving places like this. (Nearest MTR: Central)

2、莲香楼

   

    老主顾们在共用的桌子前争抢老旧的座椅,吊扇发出呼呼的声响,老式的挂钟准时报点,这一切仿佛永远停在了62年 的莲香(芳香的莲花)楼。如果你在香港停留期间只有一次品尝广式糕点机会的话,那么你要去的,就是这里了。莲香楼位于香港中环区,大厅已有数十年的历史。 无论是现代化还是说英语的顾客,这里都丝毫没有让步的意思。你最好做好打手语的准备,或者和懂粤语的朋友同去。莲香楼提供的是原汁原味的旧香港美味。(不 要错过莲蓉饼与糯米粽。)这座城市的饮食文化在莲香楼这样仅存的几家店面里,被完整的保留下来。(最近港铁站:中环)

Everyone thinks of Hong Kong as a city, but in fact it is a sprawling archipelago of 260 islands. If you never see their rugged coastlines or deserted coves, and if you are never buffeted by the salty sea wind as it blows full pelt across a surging prow, then you will not know very much of Hong Kong at all. To see the place as it must have appeared to generations of fishermen and pirates, hire a "junk" (the term formerly applied to traditional Chinese fishing boats now refers to any motorized pleasure vessel). Load a picnic and a cool-box of beer and wine, and set off through the scattered islets. Drop anchor somewhere remote and dive off the deck for a swim.
Eight-hour charters start at around at $490 from Traway; the website is in Chinese only, but staff speak English (852-2527-2513). Companies like Jaspas (852-2792-6001) and Saffron (852-2857-1311) charge considerably more, but provide better-looking craft and, in Jaspas' case, cold beverages, onboard lunch and waiter service. Get a group of friends and local colleagues together to share the cost. Junks will collect you from Central's Pier 9 (nearest MTR: Central) or Kowloon Public Pier (nearest MTR: Tsim Sha Tsui).


3、租舢板

   

    人们都认为香港是一座城市,实际上香港是260个 岛屿组成的群岛。如果你从未见过蜿蜒的海岸线和荒芜的港湾,从未被涌上船头的浪花中夹杂的咸湿海风吹打,那么你就根本不了解香港。想要到这些地方,需要当 地渔民的帮助,租一条“舢板”(舢板在繁体中文的原意是渔船,现在也指那些摩托快艇)。带上冰镇的啤酒和葡萄酒,穿越这些星罗棋布的小岛来一顿野餐。随便 找个边远的小岛抛锚,跳下甲板,尽情畅游吧。

附近有翠华公司提供出租船只服务,8小时490美元,网站只有中文版,不过他们的员工会英语(852-2527-2513)。像贾斯伯斯(852-2792-6001)和诗舫 (852-2857-1311) 这样的公司收费就要高的多,但提供更漂亮的船只。以贾斯伯斯为例,提供冷饮,穿上午餐,还有侍者服务。叫上朋友还有当地同事,大家一起AA制。你们可以在中环第九码头(最近港铁站:中环)或者九龙城码头(最近港铁站:尖沙咀)上船。

   
Having a soak at the Intercontinental on Kowloon, is not a cheap proposition, since you will either need to be a hotel guest (about $350 and up per night) or a day client of the spa (which costs about the same). But here's what you get in return: an impeccably landscaped, third-floor spa deck, located right on the edge of Victoria Harbor; three infinity pools maintained at different temperatures — cold, warm and hot — with water that appears to sluice magically into the sea; a front-row view of the Hong Kong skyline; the ministrations of "pool butlers," who soundlessly replenish drinks and supply facial mists; and a feeling of ineffable smugness as you gaze down upon the tourists, sweating it out on the harborside walk below. One of Hong Kong's most sublime secrets. (Nearest MTR: Tsim Sha Tsui)


4、香港洲际酒店

   

    在洲际酒店泡个澡可不便宜,你需要交酒店住宿费(大约350美元每晚或者更多)或者水疗费(价钱差不多)。当然回报颇丰:一座刚好在维多利亚港边上,美轮美奂,位于四楼的露天水疗平台;三个保持冷、温、热不同温度的无边际水疗池,水池中的水魔幻般的流向大海;香港海岸线最前排的风景;水疗侍者服务--悄声的为你添加饮品并提供面部按摩;俯瞰海岸线漫步的游人,感觉妙不可言。这里是香港最壮观的景点之一(最近港铁:尖沙咀)。

  
This rowdy thoroughfare in central Kowloon starts at Temple Street's junction with Jordan Road, terminates five blocks north on Kansu Street and looks like every B-movie director's dream of Chinatown. Under the glare of bare light bulbs, hawkers flog everything from bizarre patent medicines to counterfeit watches. Prostitutes work the low-rise tenements, fortune-tellers cluster by the multistory car park and impoverished Chinese opera troupes busk for a few dollars just outside the public toilets. Outdoor food stalls display still-twitching, unnameable crustacea and old men and junkies gamble on games of Chinese chess in the concrete square outside the eponymous temple. Ghetto heaven. (Nearest MTR: Jordan or Yau Ma Tei)

5、庙街夜市

   

    庙街位于九龙区中心,从庙街与佐敦路交口开始,一直到甘肃路北5个路口(都属于庙街),这里好比B级 电影导演们所描绘的唐人街。明晃晃的灯光下,小贩们贩卖的东西五花八门,从稀奇古怪的药到仿制手表应有尽有。妓女们在低矮的房间里接客,算命先生们在高楼 大厦的停车场边三五成群,落魄的京剧班子为了可怜的几美元在公共厕所外演出。露天排档上摆满了还在蠕动的不知名的甲克类生物,庙街得名的那座寺庙外,老人 和毒贩子们在广场的角落里对这一盘象棋打赌。这里是贫民区的天堂。(最近港铁站:佐敦或油麻地)

   
Although a graceless 28-story extension has ruined the once elegant and low-rise contours of the 80-year-old Peninsula Hotel on Salisbury Road, one can be marginally forgiving because the said carbuncle houses the China Clipper — a swanky lounge that recalls the pioneering days of Asian flight. From the Clipper, guests are escorted to a rooftop helipad and into choppers for jaw-dropping aerial tours of Hong Kong. Arranged either through the hotel or through the charter company Heliservices (852-2802-0200), the tours start at a minimum of $850 for a 15-minute whirl around Hong Kong Island, during which the buildings will look close enough to prod.
 Try an appetite-whetting jaunt before returning for champagne and lunch at the hotel's magnificent signature restaurant, Gaddi's (852-2315-3171), or afternoon tea in the famously palatial lobby. You'll be feeling slightly giddy for a while to come. (Nearest MTR: Tsim Sha Tsui)


6、半岛酒店空中游

   

    梳士巴利道上有着80年历史的半岛酒店一直以低层高雅的形象示人,尽管扩建的28层将这一形象破坏殆尽,多少有一点还是可以原谅的,那就是被称为酒店红宝石的“中国快马”——一个带你回忆起亚洲飞行史的的豪华贵宾厅。客人可以从“快马”到达楼顶的停机坪,登上直升机来一次环港低空飞行。飞行可以由酒店安排,或者由持有相关执照的直升机服务公司(852-2802-0200)安排。每分钟850美元,环港岛低空飞行15分钟。

在酒店华丽的餐厅盖迪(852-2315-3171)来一顿香槟午宴,记得饭前做些开胃运动;或者在豪华的大厅喝一杯下午茶。简直是酒不醉人人自醉啊。(最近港铁站:尖沙咀)

 

Tips

China Clipper原本是完成香港至拉斯威加斯首次远程飞行的一架飞机的名字,该飞机的螺旋桨现在就收藏在顶楼收藏廊中。

In the boom years of the 1960s and 1970s, Hong Kong people demanded increasingly sophisticated dining options to match their swelling pocketbooks, and what they got was the cha chan teng. Under names like "The Gloucester" and "The Cherikoff," these neighborhood restaurants attempted to present a reasonable simulacrum of Western-style cuisine but in practice served heavily syncretic fare. The likes of soya sauce chicken spaghetti or pork chop with applesauce and steamed rice became the stuff of fashionable Friday nights, washed down with things like yin-yang (coffee and tea, mixed in the same cup). Several cha chan teng have survived, serving the same kind of food, but now they're a cult thing — visited by young people looking for their childhoods in salads of tinned fruit cocktail and mayo, with side servings of irony and retro decor. Try Mido Café (nearest MTR: Yau Ma Tei) in Kowloon — much beloved by art directors for its well preserved '60s interior — or the perennially popular Tsui Wah (nearest MTR: Central) on Hong Kong Island.

7、茶餐厅

   

       在 香港经济飞速发展的上世纪六、七时年代,随着人们的钱包越来越鼓,相应的对饮食也有了更高的要求,茶餐厅就是那时候兴起的。像“告罗士打”和“车厘哥夫” 旗下的街边餐馆,试图提供一种仿西式的烹饪方法,结果最后变成了中西混搭的风格。诸如酱油鸡肉酱意大利面、苹果沙拉牛排配米饭,再加上一杯“阴阳”(一种 咖啡与茶的混合饮料)就成了周末的最佳选择。少数茶餐厅最终幸存了下来,提供统一的食品。现在去茶餐厅更多是一种怀旧,伴着铁制的老旧装饰,人们试图在什 锦水果罐头沙拉和蛋黄酱中找寻曾经的童年。可以尝尝九龙的美都餐室(最近港铁站:油麻地),这里完整的保留着60年代的的装修,是文艺导演的最爱,或者也可以去港岛广受大众喜爱的的崔记茶餐厅(最近港铁站:中环)。

  
Reclamation has reduced the journey length of Hong Kong's iconic cross-harbor ferry to a mere seven or eight minutes these days. Board it anyway. It costs just $.28 each way for an upper-deck seat (avoid the even cheaper lower deck, unless you enjoy the press of humanity or the reek of unregulated marine diesel). On this engaging little ride, you'll sail past shipping vessels of all kinds and take in widescreen views of the Hong Kong Island coastline from Quarry Bay to Western. Try and catch a sailing just before 8 p.m. These boats stop mid-harbor for a few moments so that tourists can take pictures of the nightly Symphony of Lights show — an eye-watering, ecologically reckless son et lumière that incorporates lights, lasers, fireworks and 44 waterfront buildings on both Hong Kong and Kowloon.

8、天星小轮

   

    虽然填海工程将这个香港标志性油轮的航程缩短到了七、八分钟,但仍值得一试。上层座位的票价仅有0.28美元(尽量不要选择更便宜的下层,除非你学雷锋或者可以忍受柴油机的恶臭)。坐在这个迷人的小轮上,从停泊在港口的各式轮船变经过,从鲗鱼涌到西部海岸,整个港岛的海岸线尽收眼底。尽量选择晚上8点前的那一班。船到中途会停留一段时间,以便游客拍摄“幻彩咏香江”由港岛和九龙44幢海边建筑物的互动灯光及音乐效果组成的大型灯光音乐汇演。

   
When the local tourism board refers to Hong Kong as "Asia's World City" it's referencing the well-ordered worldliness of big banks, fine hotels and a philharmonic — not the worldliness of Bangladeshi hash dealers and Nigerian men trading used PCs by the container load. But this other Hong Kong can be found on the Kowloon peninsula, in the great sleepless citadel known as Chungking Mansions. The complex of five 17-story towers is home to residential apartments, low-rent guesthouses and offices, money changers, restaurants and shops. Some 5,000 people live here, but the population swells daily by an extra estimated 10,000 multinational visitors, buying and selling everything from secondhand mobile phones to old clothing. According to one estimate, 20% of the mobile phones now in use in sub-Saharan Africa have passed through this high-rise souk. Go to the three-level arcade to see world trade in its rawest form, then finish up with a curry at one of the dozens of South Asian restaurants on the floors above. Brace yourself. (Nearest MTR: Tsim Sha Tsui)

9、重庆大厦

   

    当本土的旅游业宣传香港是一座“亚洲的世界之城”时,指的是井然有序的各大银行、五星酒店及交响乐团,而并非来自孟加拉国和尼日利亚从事集装箱贸易的经销商们。不过香港的这一面可以在九龙半岛看到,那就是著名的有着不眠之城之称的重庆大厦。这栋由517层高的大厦组成的混合建筑拥有旅店、廉租房、办公室、外汇兑换店、餐馆及商店。大约5000人住在这里,但随着各国游客的到访每天这里人口额外要增加10000人左右。这里的买卖从二手手机到旧衣服应有尽有。据统计,撒哈拉以南非洲市场上使用的手机,20%都是从这座高楼的露天市场流出去的。三层没有装修,是一个世界贸易市场,参观后可以到楼上众多南亚餐馆点上一份咖喱炒饭。做好准备吧。(最近港铁站:尖沙咀)

   
The landscaped rooftop of Central's waterfront mall, the glitzy IFC, is ringed with posh bars and restaurants. However, the resort-style sofas, tables and armchairs placed right outside those establishments are for the use of the public, and the restaurant operators have no jurisdiction over them. This means that while places like H One and Red would prefer that you blow a ton of cash on their meals and drinks, you're perfectly entitled to bring your own if you're sitting outdoors. Stop off at the CitySuper deli on Level 1, pick up a $20 bottle of wine, a corkscrew and some cheese and olives — then head to the roof for a recession-busting, alfresco afternoon. Million-dollar views almost never come this reasonably priced. (Nearest MTR: Central)


10、国际金融中心

   

    国际金融中心这座位于中环海边的购物中心顶楼,尽是各种时尚酒吧和餐厅。不过这些场所外面公共区域的沙发、餐桌以及扶手椅,对游人是免费的,而且对此餐厅的经营者也无权管理。这就意味着像Hone或者Red这样的(时尚餐厅)更愿意你花大价钱购买他们的食物和饮料,因为当你坐在外面时你完全有权自带食物。在一楼的熟食店CitySuper停留片刻,买上一瓶20美元的葡萄酒、开瓶器、奶酪还有橄榄,到顶楼度过一个露天的下午。上百万美元的景点从未有这样合理的价格。(最近港铁站:中环)

来源作者: 利亚姆·菲兹帕特里克
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